He had his restaurant on Edinburgh’s George IV Bridge for nearly 16 years, and he clung on with total tenacity, even though there were problems with the building’s cladding that meant that scaffolding had to be up for five years. I mean, it’s still there and continues to look a mess.
For most of that time, you’d hardly know that there was a restaurant (and a hotel, the Radisson) behind the hoarding.
In the meantime, you can also find him at his new Ondine venue in St Andrews. It’s inside the glorious new five-star hotel, Seaton House.
And, my goodness, he has swapped a grim view for a captivating one out to West Sands beach and the Old Course, from the vantage point of this honey-coloured Victorian building.
The dining room is such a beautiful space, in pristine cream, with a turquoise-tiled marble oyster bar that’s topped with bottles of Tabasco.
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